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Flowers
Many special occasions, such as prize giving’s and speech days, take place
during the summer months. Bouquets
given at such times are best composed of mixed flowers. For example,
carnations, roses, spray carnations and
Alstroemeria in mixed tints with a frosting of gypsophila would look
lovely.
Unfortunately, because some last longer than others, it has been thought
that certain flowers are incompatible
with others. In most instances, this is totally incorrect; after all, each
individual flower is a separate
entity, a commercial bunch of ten apparently identical flowers may not
develop evenly and all ten will certainly
not expire at the same moment. Even so, when planning mixed bunches and
designs, it is still prudent to select
flowers that are not too dissimilar in their lasting potential.
These are great favourites, both with the public and designers, for almost
any effect is possible. In essence,
the materials are arranged entirely in the hand, and are finally tied in
one place with the stems cut to an even
length so that the bouquet can be put into a container without being
untied and rearranged.
When this design is demonstrated, it looks really easy to assemble, but,
in reality, it is far from simple. It
demands considerable muscular control, a true eye and a certain amount of
knack which comes with long practice.
So do not despair if it does not come right at the first attempt.
The objective is to create a bouquet that shows every flower to advantage.
There are
numerous designs, the most usual being completely circular with a
gently-domed profile. Some materials may be
recessed but, in this design, the majority of them are all at the same
level with space between each flower. The
materials pivot on a central axis within the hand. One of the easiest ways
to see how this happens is to take a
bundle of wires, holding them in the centre so that the bunch is
completely upright (see figure 18). Gently tap
the bench with the lower tips of the wires, at the same time slightly
releasing your grip in the centre.
Assemble the flowers and thoroughly clean every stem. Then lay the
materials, including the foliage, in separate
groups on the workbench. Also have some little
SUMMER: FLOWERS AS GIFTS
bunches of foliage handy to place between some of the flower stems where
required. This helps to separate the
flowers but must not be inserted between every stem otherwise the tying
point will be far too thick and clumsy.
It does not matter which hand is used as the 'vase' but, having decided,
do not change hands. If you are
normally right handed, you will probably use the left hand to hold the
flowers, feeding in from the right (see
figure 19).
When attempting this for the first time, you may find that the materials
refuse to spread out from the' axis'
within your hand, and that you finish up with the usual flat backed sheaf.
In that case try placing one stem in
front and the next behind and you will find that this automatically
introduces volume to the bouquet. Be quite
certain that each stem is laid parallel to the previous one and that the
point of contact within your hand is
always in the same spot.
The joy of this design is that, should a stem be misplaced, you can
immediately extract it and re-position. When
all materials have been inserted, bind the stems firmly above your hand.
Use raffia, string or plastic tape but
never wire as this will cut the stems. Bind around two or three times,
pulling firmly and tightly, make a loop
and pull the running end through. Then, for extra safety, bring it down
between the stems and right up again
against the tying area. Cut all stems to the same level.
It is not usual to wrap these bouquets for presentation, but if protection
is necessary, roll the design in
cellophane, gather the paper together over the flowers and secure with a
multi-loop ribbon bow. Tie the
cellophane at the axis as well, so that the bouquet can be handled easily.
When attempting a hand-tied bouquet for the first time, it is a good idea
to use only one type of flower, such
as carnations. They can, of course, be in mixed colours but, since the
stems are usually strong and straight and
the flowers an even size, it will be easier for you to see the 'bones' of
the bouquet. Be sure to put a small
cushion of foliage between each stem and add a little September flower,
gypsophila, Trachelium to introduce
another texture.
Any type of flower is suitable for a handtied bouquet and the more
proficient you become, the more you can
experiment with various shapes and sizes. Arum lilies, grasses, Heliconia
or strelitzia would be outstandingly
dramatic, but difficult to control and hold.
This is a charming way to gift-wrap flowers for, not only do they look
attractive, the cellophane also protects
the flowers in transit.
Like anything else created by hand, it takes a little time but this can be
minimized if all the necessary items
are handy. Choose a multi-loop bow which will either blend in colour or
contrast with the flowers and assemble a
stapler, a sachet of flower food, the message card and envelope, a care
card, and the cellophane. It will also
be necessary to choose suitable foliage to complement the flowers. If you
are in an area where most customers
have their own gardens, try to include some that is not generally grown
locally for an unusual look. Town
dwellers without gardens will obviously appreciate more foliage, but never
use cypresses for a gift bouquet as
it is not suitable for vase designs.
Before use check that every stem is clean, that the foliage is cut into
usable lengths and that it is not too
woody. Roses should all be meticulously de-thorned. Next, arrange flowers
and foliage to their best advantage.
Gladioli can be difficult because of their very long flower heads and so
other flowers, when arranged with
gladioli, should be placed well up in the bouquet so that the finished
effect is not too elongated. Shorter
stemmed flowers, such as freesia and anemones, should be placed nearer the
tying point. Place a little light
foliage behind them so that they are displayed to look important.
Tie the bow firmly to the bouquet and then lay the bouquet on the
cellophane with enough length to cover all the
stems up to the tying point. Bring the longer end of the cellophane over
the flowers right down to the tying
point. Pleat the cellophane just above the bow and secure with one staple.
This will ensure that there is enough
paper over the flowers so that none is squashed. Keep the bow and tying
ends outside the cellophane
Carefully fold the cellophane towards the bow from each side of the bow.
Staple it just once each side to keep
it in place. Then take the long tying ends of the ribbon, cross them
behind the bouquet and bring to the front.
Tie them firmly, either across the centre of the bow or just above it. If
the tying ends are not long enough to
do this take another piece of ribbon and tie it around, finishing either
across the centre of the bow or just
above it. Staple each side of the parcel at the top corners, and once or
twice between these and the ribbon bow.
Do not seal too firmly or the cellophane will mist over as the flowers
respire.
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